6.12.16

Finished: Late 40s Sleevelss Pullover

1 comment:
Hi!

(See for Dutch text below)


Some months ago I finshed another knitting project, but never got around to blog about it. And that's a pity because I'm quite pleased with how this project turned out.




The pattern is from 1948s and is a supplement of a Dutch women's magazine called Libelle which I found at a fleamarket some years ago. I used Drops Nepal, a yarn I already had in my stash. It's a bit chunkier then the pattern suggested, but I think it gives the V-shapd stripes more definition. 



Besides using a chunkier wool I did change the pattern a little. I had only a few skeins and had to be economical to make sure I wouldn't run out of wool too soon. The sleeveless pullover originally has a closure on one side seam and shoulder seam, which I ditched to save some yarn. 


The V-shaped stripes are a nice detail. What I liked about this pattern is that it's very easy to make. The used stitches are simple and you don't need to knit separate bands for the armescyes and neckline. So, after knitting the front and back pieces you only need to block, weave in the loose threads and sew the pieces together and then you're finished. Such a difference compared to some of the other knitted pieces I made in the past.


I would love to make more sleeveless pullover. Because there aren't any sleeves involved it knits up much quicker than a cardigan. Perfect to knit in between bigger or more complicated projects. 


And it's a great addition to my wardrobe :)Since I'm quite a chilly person I'm unable to wear blouses during winter unless I cover myself up with a cardigan or pullover. A sleeveless pullover is perfect to wear blouses and actually see a litlle more of them. 




Hallo!



Een aantal maanden geleden was ik alweer klaar met een breiwerk, maar het was nog niet gelukt om hierover te bloggen. En dat is best jammer, want ik ben heel tevreden met het resultaat.



Het patroon komt uit 1948 en is gepubliceerd in Libelle's Haken & Breien. Dit blad heb ik ooit eens gevonden op een vlooienmarkt. Ik gebruikte voor dit project wol van Drops (Nepal). Deze wol is wat dikker dan wordt geadviseerd in de patroonbeschrijving, maar maakt de V-vormige strepen meer uitgesproken.



Ik heb het patroon een beetje aangepast, omdat ik niet zoveel wol had en dus een beetje efficiënt moest zijn. Dit mouwloos truitjes heeft officieel een sluiting in een zij- en schoudernaad. Deze heb ik achterwege gelaten, zodat ik meer wol overhad. 



De V-vormige strepen zijn een mooi detail. Wat ik fijn vond aan dit patroon is dat het heel eenvoudig is om te maken. De steken zijn simpel en je hoeft de banden rondom de armsgaten en halslijn niet apart te breien. Dus als je klaar bent met het breien van het voor- en achterpand hoef je het alleen nog maar op te spannen, draadjes weg te werken en in elkaar te naaien. Dat is een behoorlijk verschil vergeleken met andere breisels die ik eerder heb gemaakt.



Ik zou graag meer van dit soort mouwloze truitjes willen maken. Omdat je geen mouwen hoeft te breien gaat het vrij snel en is het dus ideaal om tussen grotere/ingewikkeldere projecten door te doen. 

Daarbij vind ik het een fijne toevoeging aan mijn kledingkast :) Aangezien ik een behoorlijke koukleum ben kan ik gedurende de winter geen blouses dragen zonder mezelf in te pakken met een trui of vest. Dit is dan de ideale uitkomst waarbij je iets meer van de blouse ziet.


1.11.16

Finished: McCall 4942

11 comments:
Wow, time's flying when you're having fun! I meant to blog sooner, but didnt 'found the time or focus. So much has happened lately, mostly good things that is! So I shouldn't complain at all :)


Anyways, today I'm wearing the dress I recently finished and instead of doing some cleaning and tidying up in my house I decided that it is much more fun to make some pictures and write a blogpost.



Lately I totally ditched the pin curls, although I love them, my hair is just terrible to curl and I kind of love my straigth hair again so for now no more curls (which most of the times only last a few hours). I'm also letting the hair dye grow out. I've been dyeing my hair since I was 14, always hated my natural hair color, but now I finally start to appreciate it. 




The pattern I used is McCall 4942 and I have it in my stash for al ong time, I had it on my to-do list a couple of years ago, but never got to it.




The wine red fabric was a gift and has such a beautiful color. Alas, it was quite hard to work with because it's quite slippery. The fabric is also a bit stretchy and after sewing all the seams of the bodice and skirt I discovered it was too big while the patterns had the correct size. So I had to unpick the seams and resize the pattern pieces. You must know, I have very little experience sewing stretchy fabrics, I'm always using woven fabrics. This is a whole new are for me.




Then I had some problems with the sleeve caps as well. The pattern suggested to stitch 3 darts in each sleeve cap, but they turned out quite wobbly(?) and I couldn't fix it. Instead I gathered the sleeve caps and I really liked the results. 



I made a sleeve stiffener of organza (forgot to cut the thread befor taking the photo)

To give the sleeve some more support I made a sleeve stiffener. An idea I borrowed from another 40s sewing pattern which I have in my stash and will probably be my next sewing project.


Fabric covered buttons and button loops at the neck opening
I really love the details of this dress like the gathered skirt (which has 6 rows of gathers permanently stitched at the center front), the gathers at the front yoke, fabric covered buttons, lapped side seam closure and of course the fabric covered belt!




And how can I forget about the pockets??? It has pockets is well :)Yay for pockets! 


My cat wanted some attention 
I've been wearing this dress quit a lot so it is a big succes! Solid color dresses aren't that boring at all (especially if you make funny dances in it ;) Really need more of them!


Ok, this is becoming a small tradition, posting the funny pics at each end of my blogpost
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Techniques I used (with references):

French seams:
C. Shaeffer, 2011. Couture Sewing Techniques. Pp. 51-52.

Fabric covered belt:
I followed the instructions which came with the kit and used an online tutorial written by Linda Bradfield.

Button loops:
I don't remember anymore where I learned this technique but I found a tutorial written by Ysolda.

Fabric covered buttons:
The buttons are from Prym and I use an universal tool to create the fabric covered buttons. The tool and package of buttons contains a clear instruction.

Lapped side seam closure with snaps:
J. Cole & S. Czachor, 2010. Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers. Pp. 497.


This closure is very common in vintage dresses. The pattern instructions of a vintage pattern show you how to make one. 

Hand sewn hem with a blind catchstitch:
C. Shaeffer, 2011. Couture Sewing Techniques. Pp. 35.

Pinked edges:
I used my rottary cutter with a pinking blade to finish the hem and some of the other edges.

Sleeve stiffener:

This technique I borrowed form another 40s sewing pattern to support the sleeve.

8.9.16

Autumn Sewing plans

3 comments:
Hello!

After finishing my 50s Halter dress, I thought it was the good time to start focusing on garments for autumn. But while I'm writing this we're having pretty good weather again. Well anyways, here are my plans for autumn:

McCall 4942

I already made a start with this dress (3/4 sleeves). I love how this fabric drapes and can't wait to get it finished and start wearing it!


Lutterloh 1941 Skirt


This is one of the UFO's I have at the moment. The pattern is already drafted, I made a muslin and after adjusting the pattern I already cut out the fabric about 3 years ago :O The welt pockets made me putting this project aside. But now I feel confident enough to tackle this project. But I have to change the pattern, because I lost some weigth. So new pattern, new muslin. 

Years ago I bought this lovely burgundy wool fabric. I thinkt it really is a pity that this dress is not part of my wardrobe already!


Lutterloh late 1940s Bra


Now I've made my first vintage panties, it's time to make a matching bra. The original plan was to make this right after the panties. I made a pattern and two muslins, but it was bit difficult to get a good fit. So I needed to take a break from this project.


Simplicity 3408


And another dress (long sleeved version) which I like to make. I have this very lovely, very expensive rayon fabric I once bought when I was on a holiday years ago. Because it was so expensive I never dared using it. Well, that has to change :) it's a pity if it stayed in my stash for another 5 years.

I know myself and I'm  often not really sticking to my sewing plans. But it's always fun to plan your wardrobe!

What are your plans? 

28.8.16

Finished: 50s Halter Dress

15 comments:
Hi all!

Of course it would be better if I had finished this dress just a week ago, because we had some very hot days over here. But I was busy and didn't feel like rushing. So here it is, at the end of summer I finish a summer dress. Oh well, it won't be the first time that I'm a bit behind with sewing. 


Before talking about this dress I want to let you know I've been thinking about my blog lately and what to do with it. I like to share my finished projects, but I also want to give it something more. I was thinking about writing tutorials. But I realise there are so many great tutorials out there already and I don't feel like writing stuff which has be done already a dozen of times. And probably in a much better way then I can do, because I still don't feel really confident about my (English) writing skills. 


But I will write a tutorial about drafting the bodice of the halter dress. So far as I know, it has not been done before and I can try if I like it and make it work. If it does work out I might try this more often, but only when there's not already a good tutorial out there. 


So that's the thing about tutorials. I also thought I can add references to the techniques I use in my projects. If one want to use a paticular technique they know where to find it this way. You have to think about books, youtube, websites, blogs, ecc. At least you know I have tried it with succes and hopefully it inspires you to add some nice techniques to your sewing projects as well. I hope this will give some more depth to my blogposts. 

Adding more accessories :D
Ok, lets talk about the dress then :) I really loved making this dress. Things went pretty well and it was a great opportunity to try some new sewing techniques. I drafted the Bodice myself using my block pattern and after some trial and error I got a good fit and the halter straps behaving in a way I really liked. As inspiration I used these pattern illustrations:


The skirt pattern is borrowed from a pattern I found in one of my early 50s sewing magazines. It is a 3/4 circle skirt with lots of gathers. It consists of 4 pieces. I really love how the skirt falls, it's very elegant. 


Because of the halter the back has no support. I decided to add Spiral Boning and a Waist Stay, so the bodice has some support and stays at the right place. I never used spiral boning before, but had it in my stash for quite some years. It's great material to work with. I definitely prefer it over plastic boning,because spiral boning is much more flexible. It can bend forward and backward but also to the sides. Because of the boning I also added a lining to cover the boning up. The waist stay is made of grosgrain tape and I added hooks and eyes at the ends.

Inside out: Seam Binding, Waist Stay and Machine Stitched Narrow Hem
As usual the seams are finished with Seam Binding. I still think this is the prettiest way to handle raw seam edges. To prevent stretching I added Stay Tape to both sides of the straps. You can imagine the fabric will stetch over time. 


I did some pattern matching at the center front and center back seams. At the center back I also added a Lapped Zipper. I sewed this in by hand so I had more control over the fabric. The hem is finished with a Machine Stitched Narrow Hem.

Pattern matching on center front and back

And now I'm hoping for some more summery days so I can wear this dress just a couple of times before autumn starts!

A dress like this screams for a 'good' twirl!
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Here are the used techniques with their references:

 Seam Binding:  
Tutorial written by Laura Mae; Prefold Method (I don't cut the pieces at the right length beforehand, but just iron very long lengths of seam binding and cut them to the right size afterwards. 

Spiral Boning:
J. Cole & S. Czachor, 2010. Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers. Pp. 171-174. 

Hand Picked Lapped Zipper:
I learned this technique when I made Vogue 8767. It was part of the sewing instruction amd since then always do it this way. 

Note: Make sure that the overlap will cover the zipper at the waistline seam. You will see that the overlap will pull away a little at this point.

Stay Tape Neckline:
Tutorial written by Tasha of Sewaholic

Gathered skirt:
Modevakschool Nationaal. Kleermakerspraktijkboek. Pp. 56

Note: This technique is very common. If you search on sewing gathers you find similar techniques.

Drafted Bodice:
I couldn't find anything similar in my pattern drafting books or on the internet. So I figured it out myself.

Machine Stitched Narrow Hem:
C. Shaeffer, 2011. Couture Sewing Techniques. Pp. 74. Called Pin Hem.
J. Cole & S. Czachor, 2010. Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers. Pp. 419-420.

Waist Stay:
J. Cole & S. Czachor, 2010. Professional Sewing Techniques for Designers. Pp. 246-247.

12.8.16

Finished: Doreen Jumper

11 comments:
Hello!

If you're following me on Instagram, you already now that I recently finished two of my knitting projects. And today I want to show one of them to you :)


It's the Doreen Jumper and it's a late 40s/early 50s pattern which is published in a knitting magazine called 'Magriet Breit' (Margriet Knits). 'Magriet' is a Dutch magazine for women and is on the market since 1938. 'Magriet Breit' is a supplement which is  mainly dedicated to knitting as the title suggests. But you can also find some crochet and embroidery patterns in it. 


A few years ago I was lucky to find a pile f these knitting magazines at a fleamarket for a very special price. The ones I have are mainly late 40s or early 50s. I wish I someday find some older magazines as well. But they are pretty scarce in our country. 


I think this is the fastest knitted sweater I ever made. I'm kind of a slow worker, because I often doubt if I'm on the right track which means that I can be quite obsessive about how things are coming along. So I'm continually checking and rechecking my work, frogging parts, adding this, changing that, ecc. You can imagine that this is very time consuming. And I never follow a pattern to the letter, I always think things have to be different or better. So that doesn't help either.


But this project went very smooth. I had to make just a few changes. I graded the pattern down to my size and I added some length to the sleeves and bodice. The neck was also a bit on the small side and I knew my head wouldn't fit through the hole, so I made the neckline a bit wider. 


The pattern consists of mirrorred cables which give a braided look. Between the cables there is a small braid. The neckband is about 5 cm wide and folded to the inside and sewn to the jumper to create a tunnel. With the help of a safety pin I put the cord through this tunnel. The cord is a so called i-cord which can be knitted or crocheted. I choose to crochet the cord, because I didn't had the right double pointed knitting needles.  


The color is a beautiful greyish green and is perfect for autumn if you ask me. At the moment we're in the middle of august and I'm wearing this jumper. Isn't that insane?!? The weather over here is just horrible! It's cold and there's a lot of rain. But for me a great opportunity to take pics of this jumper, because I wouldn't do this when it would be a hot summer day!


I think I spent about 8 weeks knitting this jumper. With an avarage of 10 hours a week. So this means I spent 80 hours to make this beauty. Compared to my colorwork projects, this is very very fast!

Me being silly again
As you can see, I'm qutie happy with the results :)

Hopefully, I'll be able to make some pictures of my other finished knitwork so I can put it on my blog!

6.8.16

WIP: 50s Halter Dress

20 comments:
Hello there!

Yesterday I got hit with the stomach flu :( and although I feel a bit better today I decided to keep things calm and stay in bed watching some tv series, doing some knitting and write a blogpost :)


A while ago I was a bit indecisive about which summer dress I would like to sew and wrote blogpost about this, which you can read here.


Recently I started with the dress I choose as my first option. It's the 50s halter dress with crossed straps. The bodice is drafted by me. After some trial and error, I got a really nice fit and I like how the fabric gathers around the neck. If you're interested I can write a tutorial about how I drafted the bodice. 


The skirt pattern comes from one of my early 50s sewing magazines. It´s a 3/4 circle skirt with lots of gathers. 



When I was satisfied with the muslin I cut out the fabric and started sewing the skirt. Since the skirt uses a lot of fabric it has to hang for a few days to evening out the hem. You can also add little weights to the hem if you like, but I have never done that myself. So far I always get good results without putting extra weight to the hem.

I did some great pattern matching at Centre Front

Then I started with the bodice. I decided it needs boning for some extra support (especially in the back). A couple of years ago I bought some spiral boning and decided this is the right time to finally use them. 


But before adding boning to the vertical seams I wanted to fit it once again. Just to be sure because I don't feel like removing the boning channels if the bodice won't fit me properly. I know I already made a muslin, but sometimes the 'real' fabric can behave a bit differently then the muslin fabric. The skirt is basted to the bodice and I basted a zipper in the centre back of the dress and it was ready for a fit. 


At this point I fitted the bodice and added the boning and it's ready for another fit. Hmm, am I a bit obsessive? I don't know. I like to check the fit during the proces, because I really hate it when I put a lot of time and effort into  making a garment and it doesn't fit me properly. 


When I'm recovered again I really hope to spend some time behind the sewing machine!

Enjoy your weekend!!

18.7.16

Vintage Pledge: Lutterloh late 40s panties

15 comments:
Hi!!

Almost two weeks ago I finished my first Vintage Pledge project; late 40s Lutterloh panties :)
It's the first time I made (vintage) lingerie and I really liked it. Although the slippery and fraying fabric could be frustrating at times.


I have a love-hate relationship with Lutterloh. I love their patterns, but every time I use them I have to make so many alterations that it's easier to draft te pattern myself. In this case I din't completely draft the pattern myself, but used the Lutterloh pattern and started altering it until it fits. I don't mind tweaking a pattern a bit to get a better fit, but I had to made huge changes and it doesnt look like the original pattern at all anymore.


In the picture above you see how the panties would look like according to the Lutterloh pattern. The crotch is way too wide, I had to cut away so much fabric there to make it fit.


There was a lot of hand sewing involved, but I don't mind that, because sewing thing by hand give you a lot more control over the fabric and it results in a neater finish with less visible stitching, which I prefer.


The side seam can be closed with little snaps which are sewn on a continuous sides seam placket closure. This was a first for me, although it isn't perfect I'm happy with how it came out. The hems and waist are finished with bias cut strips.


So, now I finally made my first steps into lingerie making there will be more. I already drafted a bra pattern and a pattern for French knickers and another kind of panties (don't know if they have a particular name) and all are vintage (30s/40s inspired). They will be all made from the same fabric and lace trim because this way I can mix and match :)


Have you ever made your own lingerie?