12.8.16

Finished: Doreen Jumper

8 comments:
Hello!

If you're following me on Instagram, you already now that I recently finished two of my knitting projects. And today I want to show one of them to you :)


It's the Doreen Jumper and it's a late 40s/early 50s pattern which is published in a knitting magazine called 'Magriet Breit' (Margriet Knits). 'Magriet' is a Dutch magazine for women and is on the market since 1938. 'Magriet Breit' is a supplement which is  mainly dedicated to knitting as the title suggests. But you can also find some crochet and embroidery patterns in it. 


A few years ago I was lucky to find a pile f these knitting magazines at a fleamarket for a very special price. The ones I have are mainly late 40s or early 50s. I wish I someday find some older magazines as well. But they are pretty scarce in our country. 


I think this is the fastest knitted sweater I ever made. I'm kind of a slow worker, because I often doubt if I'm on the right track which means that I can be quite obsessive about how things are coming along. So I'm continually checking and rechecking my work, frogging parts, adding this, changing that, ecc. You can imagine that this is very time consuming. And I never follow a pattern to the letter, I always think things have to be different or better. So that doesn't help either.


But this project went very smooth. I had to make just a few changes. I graded the pattern down to my size and I added some length to the sleeves and bodice. The neck was also a bit on the small side and I knew my head wouldn't fit through the hole, so I made the neckline a bit wider. 


The pattern consists of mirrorred cables which give a braided look. Between the cables there is a small braid. The neckband is about 5 cm wide and folded to the inside and sewn to the jumper to create a tunnel. With the help of a safety pin I put the cord through this tunnel. The cord is a so called i-cord which can be knitted or crocheted. I choose to crochet the cord, because I didn't had the right double pointed knitting needles.  


The color is a beautiful greyish green and is perfect for autumn if you ask me. At the moment we're in the middle of august and I'm wearing this jumper. Isn't that insane?!? The weather over here is just horrible! It's cold and there's a lot of rain. But for me a great opportunity to take pics of this jumper, because I wouldn't do this when it would be a hot summer day!


I think I spent about 8 weeks knitting this jumper. With an avarage of 10 hours a week. So this means I spent 80 hours to make this beauty. Compared to my colorwork projects, this is very very fast!

Me being silly again
As you can see, I'm qutie happy with the results :)

Hopefully, I'll be able to make some pictures of my other finished knitwork so I can put it on my blog!

6.8.16

WIP: 50s Halter Dress

20 comments:
Hello there!

Yesterday I got hit with the stomach flu :( and although I feel a bit better today I decided to keep things calm and stay in bed watching some tv series, doing some knitting and write a blogpost :)


A while ago I was a bit indecisive about which summer dress I would like to sew and wrote blogpost about this, which you can read here.


Recently I started with the dress I choose as my first option. It's the 50s halter dress with crossed straps. The bodice is drafted by me. After some trial and error, I got a really nice fit and I like how the fabric gathers around the neck. If you're interested I can write a tutorial about how I drafted the bodice. 


The skirt pattern comes from one of my early 50s sewing magazines. It´s a 3/4 circle skirt with lots of gathers. 



When I was satisfied with the muslin I cut out the fabric and started sewing the skirt. Since the skirt uses a lot of fabric it has to hang for a few days to evening out the hem. You can also add little weights to the hem if you like, but I have never done that myself. So far I always get good results without putting extra weight to the hem.

I did some great pattern matching at Centre Front

Then I started with the bodice. I decided it needs boning for some extra support (especially in the back). A couple of years ago I bought some spiral boning and decided this is the right time to finally use them. 


But before adding boning to the vertical seams I wanted to fit it once again. Just to be sure because I don't feel like removing the boning channels if the bodice won't fit me properly. I know I already made a muslin, but sometimes the 'real' fabric can behave a bit differently then the muslin fabric. The skirt is basted to the bodice and I basted a zipper in the centre back of the dress and it was ready for a fit. 


At this point I fitted the bodice and added the boning and it's ready for another fit. Hmm, am I a bit obsessive? I don't know. I like to check the fit during the proces, because I really hate it when I put a lot of time and effort into  making a garment and it doesn't fit me properly. 


When I'm recovered again I really hope to spend some time behind the sewing machine!

Enjoy your weekend!!

18.7.16

Vintage Pledge: Lutterloh late 40s panties

14 comments:
Hi!!

Almost two weeks ago I finished my first Vintage Pledge project; late 40s Lutterloh panties :)
It's the first time I made (vintage) lingerie and I really liked it. Although the slippery and fraying fabric could be frustrating at times.


I have a love-hate relationship with Lutterloh. I love their patterns, but every time I use them I have to make so many alterations that it's easier to draft te pattern myself. In this case I din't completely draft the pattern myself, but used the Lutterloh pattern and started altering it until it fits. I don't mind tweaking a pattern a bit to get a better fit, but I had to made huge changes and it doesnt look like the original pattern at all anymore.


In the picture above you see how the panties would look like according to the Lutterloh pattern. The crotch is way too wide, I had to cut away so much fabric there to make it fit.


There was a lot of hand sewing involved, but I don't mind that, because sewing thing by hand give you a lot more control over the fabric and it results in a neater finish with less visible stitching, which I prefer.


The side seam can be closed with little snaps which are sewn on a continuous sides seam placket closure. This was a first for me, although it isn't perfect I'm happy with how it came out. The hems and waist are finished with bias cut strips.


So, now I finally made my first steps into lingerie making there will be more. I already drafted a bra pattern and a pattern for French knickers and another kind of panties (don't know if they have a particular name) and all are vintage (30s/40s inspired). They will be all made from the same fabric and lace trim because this way I can mix and match :)


Have you ever made your own lingerie?

6.7.16

What I've been up to lately

6 comments:
Hello!!


Wow, time is flying once again. Every week I promised myself to write a blogpost, but somehow I didn't get to it. Í'm also terribly behind with reading other blogs. I'm sorry for not commenting lately, I just didn't spend a lot of time behind my computer. 


So what have I been doing lately? I went on a holiday and I celebrated my birthday :) I did a lot of knitting, not so much of sewing. Instead I rediscovered the joy of pattern drafting.

I had some troubles with fitting the Lutterloh lingerie patterns and I realized it was easier to draft the patterns myself. But at that moment I didn't realise my block pattern is quite old and my body has changed a lot since I made that pattern. Thus, I had to make a new one, if I wanted to draft the lingerie patterns. After some contemplating, I thought it was a good investment to draft new block patterns because I already planned some other sewing projects which involves pattern drafting. 
So when I had finsihed drafting the block patterns (bodice and trousers), I drafted (1:4 scale) a bra, different kinds of panties, the halter of the Ultimate 50s Summer Dress and a 40s inspired evening gown. Yes, I definintely got the hang of it!


After all that pattern drafting I decided to start making one of the panties. I cut it out of the fabric and didn't get much further then that. But this weekend I have lots of free time and I definitely want to spend some time behind my sewing machine :)



Knittingwise I did a lot! I finished all the pieces of my boyfriends sweater. Yesterday I blocked the back and front. Since I have scarce space to block the knitted pieces I can't do them all at once. But that doesn't matter, because I have started another knitting project so my hands won't stay idle. 



I love colors, color charts, patterns, colorwork, ecc. but I thought it was time for something different. I went through my stash of vintage knitting patterns and found this jumper with cables in a Dutch magazine called Margriet Breit. This was a good choice, because I really enjoy knitting this pullover. It's such a welcome change and I'm progressing so fast. Only 3 weeks ago I started knitting this and the front and back are already finished and I'm halfway the first sleeve.


Although I love love love stranded/intarsia knitting, my wardrobe can use some cardigans or pullovers in solid colors. And with this current project I feel really motivated to do something about that :)


Hopefully I can show you something finished soon!

(Argh, blogger makes such a mess of the lay out)

31.5.16

Round Up Me Made May Weeks 3, 4 and 5

6 comments:
Wow, this month is going so fast! I can't believe I photographed today my latest Me Made May outfit! So that means, it's time for another round up:


Me made slacks and cardigan. This was my first cardigan I ever knitted. And it's probably the one I wear most.

The skirt and cardigan are made by me. When it comes to knitting I like stranded knitting the most. 

Another oldie. This skirt I made quite some time ago. It's a basic gathered skirt, I still like the fabric and wear it alot during spring and summer.

The jumper and skirt are made by me. I'm more a cardigan person then a jumper/pullover person. But I definitely should knit more jumpers. 

I love big circle skirts, they are so classy and timeless. This one I made about 3 years ago during a sewing weekend.


My first sewn Lutterloh dress from a late 30s pattern book

This is my favourite dress I ever made and is self drafted based on a late 30/ early 40s Lutterloh pattern. The dress was one of the more complicated patterns I had drafted.


My final Me Made May Outfit. This is a self drafted 50s inspired dress.

I discovered that I still like wearing my old pieces a lot. That although I spent tons and tons of time making a garment I still wear it years after i made it :) That means it is totally worth the effort!

As you can see, I don't stick to one era or one style. I like to play around and try different things. I'm not a vintage purist, I like to mix modern with vintage. Sometimes I like to try to be as authentic as possible and other times I just like to wear my sneakers with a 40s dress or slacks. 

I hope you enjoyed seeing my me made outfits :)

26.5.16

50s Summer Dresses: What to choose?

13 comments:
Hello!

I need your help! I'm planning on making a 50s summer dress but I can't decide which one to make. Hopefully you can help me out by telling me which one your favourite is?

Here they are:

1. Alice In Wonderland


2. Butterfly Dress


3. Button Down Dress With Stripes


4. Ultimate 50s Summer Dress (I have the pattern below but want to make a neckline as you can see at the pattern above.


5. Circle Skirt with Bustiere (I'm opting for View A)

What are your summer sewing plans?
I would love to hear your thoughts!
Thanks in advance!!

18.5.16

Me Made May Round Up Week 1 and 2

17 comments:
Hello!

We already passed two weeks of Me Made May, so it's time for a little round up. I pledged to wear me made garments at least three times a week. We had chilly weather and summery weather so it was nice to switch between my beloved cardigans and summer dresses.


At the first day I wore two recent makes: a 40s dress and my Rowan Cardigan. I love both items and wear them a lot. 



The second day I wore a floral dress I made a few years ago. It was lovely weather so this dress was a perfect choice.



I love to combine vintage and modern. Here I wore a me made 40s inspired blouse and skirt. I had to run some errands and I can't walk very long on high heels so I opted for sneakers. The jacket and sneakers gives the otherwise cute outfit some edge.



In the second week of may we still had some great weather. So I picked another floral dress. This time a dress made with a 50s sewing pattern. Actually this is one of the first vintage sewing patterns I ever purchased.



And the good weather continues, so I wore another dress suitable for warmer temperatures. This dress is made from one of my Lutterloh books. I love stripes and I love puffed sleeves and I love shirtwaist dresses. So a total win for me!



Alas, temperature dropped down. So no, pretty summer dresses this time. This time I'm wearing a me made blouse, dress and the cardigan you have already seen above.

I hope you like it! :)

16.5.16

Finished: Hollywood 1875 / Peasant blouse

21 comments:
Hello! How are you doing?



I have a kind of a routine when it comes about blogging about my finished sewing projects. First I iron the garment(s), then preparing to make pictures and then actually take pictures. After taking pictures I edit them (nothing too special, just resizing/cropping and sometims make them a bit brighter) and finally I'll write a blogpost. So this morning I started with my routine but when I was ready to take pictures I discovered I had to recharge the battery. To make the best of the time, I decided to write the blogpost first and take pictures after. Hoping the battery will be recharged by then. It felt a bit strange, writing without pictures, but not something undoable. 

I made view 3

Anyways, today I want to show you my latest make. It's a late 40's peasant blouse. I wanted to make a peasant blouse for years now, but somehow I never got to it. Last summer I planned on sewing one, but eventually didn't get to it, because it was already september when I finally had time for this project. So this year I wanted it to be my first spring/summer make, because I didn't want to postpone it another time.


I had this pattern in my stash for some years and it's Hollywood 1875 dating from the late 40s. The blouse is made in a white cotton and I added a nice lace trim to the sleeves. 

1. Inside of sleeve; 2. outside of sleeve; 3. completed top

Although this wasn't a very complicated project it sill had some challenges. First, the fabric isn't that great. It's a very stiff cotton (even washing it several times it still remained very stiff). It leaves small holes when you put a needle or pin through it. Luckily the holes disappears after washing the fabric. And the fabric is a bit sheer. So you see every seam, facing or dart. Which, of course, I don't like and wanted to solve. Lining the blouse was not an option, because it would be too warm in summer. I opted for French seams and organza facings which you (almost) won't see from the outside.


The other challenge was the closure. The sewing descriptions didn't provide any information about the closure at all. They mentioned to close the side seams with no further instructions about inserting a zipper or adding snaps or whatsoever. Also other places where you would expect a zipper/snaps weren't mentioned. With no extra opening the blouse wouldn't fit me at all. In first instance I opted for a zipper in the sideseam, but eventually decided against it because you would see too much of the zipper and seams on the outside. Instead, I made button loops on the one side (front) of the side seam and sewed buttons on the other side (back).

1.French seams and organza facing; 2. button loops in the front side seam; 3. bias cut facings for the lower part of the arm scye; 4. buttons, buttons, buttons
Next time I definitely go for another fabric. I prefer a more soft cotton fabric instead of this stiff fabric. Sometimes choices are so limited over here, with only one fabric store. 

Silly pic of me. What was I thinking when  I was doing this pose :P
But in the end, I'm very happy with this blouse. Because I can wear it with so many skirts I already have. And that made me realise I need more of them. But since I don't like sewing the same pattern again I want to do something different. Something with embroidery or smocking. And I already have the perfect patterns in my stash: 


Simplicity 1137  (left) and Simplicity 1660 (right)

Now I only need to find more time to make all those pretty peasant blouses!