22.1.16

WIP 30s coat: Preparations

Today I want to write a little about the coat I want to make. A couple of years ago I found this beautiful pattern of a coat (Simplicity 2865).


Because this is a huge project and I bought expensive fabric I want to be very careful. I read the book 'Tailoring. The classic guide to sewing the perfect jacket' and sofar it's helping me a lot. 


I started with tracing the pattern pieces and made a muslin to see how it would fit. I did have some problems with the fit. The upper sleeve was way too big for me and also the bust area was on the bigger side. But luckily there were no other major alterations needed to get a good fit.

Left top-bottom: pretreating edge tape ~ Right top bottom: pretreating hair canvas
 In the meantime I started preshrinking the fabrics I want to use. At first I wanted to take my coat fabric (100 % wool) to the dry cleaner but they asked so much money, I decided to preshrink at home with help of a damp towel and my iron. I didn't know wool could shrink so much (so much for being careful)! I lost about 40 cm of length! And that caused a huge problem, because I wouldn't have enough fabric to cut out all the pattern pieces. 


One of my cats (Dita) is assisting me
By carefully pressing and stretching out the fabric again I gained 15 cm and with a creative pattern lay out I was able to get all the pieces out of it after all :)

Puzzling with the patterrn lay out and used everything heavy I coud find in my home

It looks a bit messy, but I just wanted to see what the most efficient way would be. Actually, I even made a sketch of the pattern lay out so I knew where the pieces should come.


I also pretreated the hair canvas and edge tape after reading this in the book I mentioned above. I never thought about preshrinking these materials. I guess 'better safe then sorry' would be right to use in this context. 

Some steps of makking bound buttonholes. This is the front. I used contrasting thread on purpose
This afternoon I practiced making bound buttonholes. I do have some experience but I prefer making some samples to know how the fabric is behaving and deciding what the perfect length of the buttonholes should be. Normally I use the method I learned during sewing class, but I wasn't very happy with this technique and wanted to try something new. Once again I used someting from the 'Tailoring' book and with great succes. Actually I took the best of both methods and blended it to something which worked so well for me. 

Some steps of making the buttonhole in the facing and the finished buttonhole

I'm always a bit scared of making bound buttonholes but now I'm feeling quite confident!

The next steps I'm going to take will be practicing the pockets and starting with pad stitching the collar and the front facing. 

It feels so good being creative and productive again :)

13 comments:

  1. Ooh, ik ben héél erg benieuwd! Ik had er ook nooit aan gedacht om alles eerst te wassen!

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    1. Nee ik ook niet! Nou ja, de stof doe ik altijd wel, maar niet al die andere dingen.

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  2. Wat heerlijk dat je weer zo bezig bent Antje! Ben meteen weer onder de indruk van je zorgvuldige aanpak... daar kan ik nog wat van leren. Je knoopsgaten zien er perfect uit!

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    1. Dankjewel Inge, dat is een mooi compliment :)

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  3. WOW! So exciting!! I love the colour and so glad you had enough fabric after the pre-shrinking. I also love your kitty assistant (pattern weight..hahahha).

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    1. Thanks! Both my cats like assisting me when I'm sewing :)

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  4. Congratulations on preparing so thoroughly. I'm ashamed to say that I would probably have dived straight in to the cutting out and never thought about the fabric and other materials shrinking.

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    1. Thank you! Usually I always preshrink my fabric, but never thought about the hair canvas and edge tape.

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  5. Fantastic job on undertaking this winter coat project. I really, really like the classic design that you opted for. It strikes me as a coat that would work well with a million and one different outfits.

    Happy sewing (and bound buttonhole making), sweet Anthea.

    Many hugs,
    ♥ Jessica

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    1. Thanks Jessica! I really like this kind of tailored coats. They are so flattering and feminine.

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  6. It looks like you are making great progress. I think it is going to look so lovely.

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    1. Thank you! It's slowly progressing, but I like to pay a lot of attention to details

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  7. Sewing a coat sounds really audacious to me ! I can't wait to see yours finished !

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