Today I want to write a little about the coat I want to make. A couple of years ago I found this beautiful pattern of a coat (Simplicity 2865).
Because this is a huge project and I bought expensive fabric I want to be very careful. I read the book 'Tailoring. The classic guide to sewing the perfect jacket' and sofar it's helping me a lot.
I started with tracing the pattern pieces and made a muslin to see how it would fit. I did have some problems with the fit. The upper sleeve was way too big for me and also the bust area was on the bigger side. But luckily there were no other major alterations needed to get a good fit.
|Left top-bottom: pretreating edge tape ~ Right top bottom: pretreating hair canvas|
|One of my cats (Dita) is assisting me|
By carefully pressing and stretching out the fabric again I gained 15 cm and with a creative pattern lay out I was able to get all the pieces out of it after all :)
|Puzzling with the patterrn lay out and used everything heavy I coud find in my home|
It looks a bit messy, but I just wanted to see what the most efficient way would be. Actually, I even made a sketch of the pattern lay out so I knew where the pieces should come.
I also pretreated the hair canvas and edge tape after reading this in the book I mentioned above. I never thought about preshrinking these materials. I guess 'better safe then sorry' would be right to use in this context.
|Some steps of makking bound buttonholes. This is the front. I used contrasting thread on purpose|
This afternoon I practiced making bound buttonholes. I do have some experience but I prefer making some samples to know how the fabric is behaving and deciding what the perfect length of the buttonholes should be. Normally I use the method I learned during sewing class, but I wasn't very happy with this technique and wanted to try something new. Once again I used someting from the 'Tailoring' book and with great succes. Actually I took the best of both methods and blended it to something which worked so well for me.
|Some steps of making the buttonhole in the facing and the finished buttonhole|
I'm always a bit scared of making bound buttonholes but now I'm feeling quite confident!
The next steps I'm going to take will be practicing the pockets and starting with pad stitching the collar and the front facing.
It feels so good being creative and productive again :)