22.3.16

Finished: Simplicity 2072

12 comments:
So, I needed a break from my coat and decided to make something quick and easy instead. I wanted to make a dress, because my last me-made dress dated from July 2014!!! At that time I wasn't feeling very good, had a rough time and I didn't had the energy to make anything. I'm so glad that lies behind me, because I'm feeling much better now!


Simplicity 2072 (40s) made by Anthea
When I went through my stash of patterns I came across such beauties, but I really needed to limit myself. It had to be quick and easy. Thus, no fancy dress with a lot of details this time. When you look at the pattern envelope of Simplicity 2072 (late 1940s) it might not the most interesting dress. But for now it was just what I needed. Something not too complicated.


Simplicity 2072 (40s) made by Anthea


This pattern has a very small size and I had to add about 3 inch / 7,5 cm to the waist and hips to make it fit me. The bust width was good. In hindsight I could have added some length (1/2 inch / 1,25 cm) to the bodice as well.


Simplicity 2072 (40s) made by Anthea

I wanted to work exclusively from my stash and I succeeded at that very well. I had some rayon-like navy colored fabric with a great drape which is perfect for this dress. Alas, I didn't have suitable zippers, instead I used snaps which I do have plenty in my stash. Also other notions like yarn, seam binding, Petersham ribbon, hooks and eyes, ecc. were all present. I really like it when I don't have to buy anything for a project because I have everything at hand.  


Simplicity 2072 (40s) made by Anthea


The plan was to use my serger to finish the raw edges. My serger is a very old lady. When I threaded her with the yarn the lever which lifts the serger foot broke off :O. I use my serger rarely, because I don't think it's the neatest finish for a garment. I prefer lining or seam binding so much more, but it's always good to have a serger when you feel like speeding up the progress a little. 


Simplicity 2072 (40s) made by Anthea


The only seam binding I have is off-white colored, and I didn't want to change the yarn of my machine every time and decided to use a decorative stitch to attach the seambinding to the raw edges rather then using the regular straight stitch. This way I could sew everything with the same yarn.


Details of dress: Simplicity 2072 (40s) made by Anthea
clockwise: closed back (inside out); one of the belt loops; seambinding with bowstitching; open back (inside out)


Because the fabric is quite heavy I was affraid the waist seam would stretch. Therefore I made a waist stay. This was a first for me. Because the dress is so simple it's a nice opportunity to introduce yourself to something new. 

I made some belt loops as well. Because I think a belt will be a really great addition this dress. 


Inside out; Simplicity 2072 (40s) made by Anthea
The dress inside out

The hand stitching was very quite time consuming. The snaps (12 pairs!), belt loops, hook and eye at waist level and waist stay, the hem and the bias-cut facings at the armholes and neckline are all stitched by hand. But I really enjoy some hand stitching. For me it's really relaxing and a mindful activity. 


Simplicity 2072 (40s) made by Anthea


I like the finished dress and I think I will wear it a lot because it fits perfectly in my wardrobe. I can style it in so many ways so don't think I will get bored of it anytime soon.


Simplicity 2072 (40s) made by Anthea


P.s. To take any pictures I have to make some room in my living room. This is how it normally looks like (what do you think of my new old rug?):


retro living room with modern, vintage and antique furniture


Now it's time to get back to my coat!

8.3.16

Buttonholes, pockets and padstitching....

16 comments:
Hi all!

The last weeks I've been doing a lot of work on my 30s coat. And it's actually getting somewhere. Because of all the padstitching, progress is slow. But I don't mind. I love taking my time with this coat.

30s coat: Bound Buttonholes WIP
Welts of bound buttonholes
After practicing the bound buttonholes with some scrap fabrics I started making them in the front piece. I was very careful and checked and measured again and again before I dared cutting into the fabric. But I'm happy with how they came out :)

30s coat: Bound Buttonholes WIP
I use towels to prevent pressing the fabric flat


With the bound buttonholes finished, the next step was making the pockets. I had more confidence making those, because the welt can cover up some minor flaws. Which isn't the case with bound buttonholes. Unlike the buttonholes you don't need to make a row of them which have to be aligned correctly. But, of course, I still checked if the pockets were put on the right place.

30s coat: Practicing Pockets
One always needs a cup of tea while sewing

After making the pockets I sewed the front pieces to the side front pieces and the side back pieces tot the center back. This wasn't very difficult to do, just some regular sewing ;)


30s coat: Pockets WIP

During my sewing course, which I took a few years ago, I did practice padstitching, but never applied it in a real sewing project. So, this was a first for me. When I made a muslin of the coat I decided where the roll line of the lapels and collar should be and transfered this to the pattern. First I sewed the pieces of the under collar together and did the same with the hair canvas. Then I transferred the roll line and padstitiching lines to the hair canvas. The roll line is also marked on the under collar. Next I basted the hair canvas to the under collar with permanent stitches through the roll line.

30s coat: Padstitching Undercollar WIP
Clockwise: 1 Basting hair canvas to fabric; 2 Creating a fold at roll line with pusing hair canvas to roll line; 3 Finished padstitching; 4 Pressing collar in shape using a towel
Now comes the important part. You start padstitching at the lower part of the collar. While you put your needle through the fabric you push the haircanvas to the roll line. You do this with every stitch in the first 2 or 3 rows. While doing this you will allow the fabric to fold on the roll line. After this first couple of rows you can continu padstitching without pushing the fabric every stitch. When you finish this part of the collar you continu with the upper part. You repeat the pushing method in the first 2 or 3 rows and continu padstitching in the normal way without pushing the hair canvas to the roll line.

Sewing Assistants
My cats are always nearby when I'm sewing

I discovered that it's easier cutting the haircanvas with seam allowance. I cut it without the hem allowance, but because you're moving the fabric toward the roll line you come a little short at some places. This can be easily corrected when you have some extra fabric. Afther padstitching you cut the seam allowance away.

30s coat: Padstitching Lapels WIP
Clockwise: 1 After preparations started padstiching the lapel; 2 Finished padstitching; 3 Removed seam allowance haircanvas and added tape; 4 Pressing the finished lapel
When I padstitched the lapels I followed the steps explained in 'Tailoring. The classic guid to sewing a the perfect jacket' with the addition of pushing the hair canvas to the roll line in the first few rows of padstitching.

30s coat: Padstitching WIP
Finished padstitching

Subsequently I sewed the shoulder seams with my sewing machine and hand basted the collar, side seams and sleeves, because I wanted to do another fitting. Luckily there are only a few minor alterations to be done.

30s coat WIP
The coat is ready to fit


Hopefully I will finish this coat soon, because spring is on it's way and temperature will start to rise again!!

30s coat Sewing Assistant
Silly cat!


Oh, and don't you love my sewing assistants :)